how to install Remaining Rows

1. Begin the second row of planks with the piece cut from the last piece in the first row. If the piece is shorter that 8″ cut a
new plank in half, and use it to begin the second row. Whenever practical, use
the piece cut from the preceding row to start the next row. End joints of all
boards should be staggered 8″ or more and grout lines on planks with tile visuals
must be aligned.
2. Install the long end of the first board at an angle to the board in the previous
row. Keep this board at its natural angle slightly raised off the subfloor. Use a
scrap piece of laminate to support the row if needed.
3. Continue installing full boards in the second row by angling the short end of
the next board in the row to lock into the previous board. Position the board
so that the long side of the board is close to boards in the previous row and
overlapping the groove of the boards in the previous row.
4. Angle up and push forward until the boards lock together.
5. Continue installing full boards in the second
and subsequent rows until you reach the wall on your right.
6. Mark the last piece, cut and install.
After all boards in the row are installed, press or walk all boards
flat to the subfloor to begin the next row.
7. Use a pull bar when necessary to ensure joints are tight.

Major repairs in Center of house

Major repairs - In Center of Room (Repair is Permanent)
1. Check replacement board for damage, size and fit.
2. Mark damaged board 1-1/2″ from ends and sides. Drill 3/16″ holes in corners
and at relief cuts.
3. Set saw depth to board thickness. Cut along lines and remove center section.
Make relief cuts using drilled holes as visible stop.
4. Carefully lift and pull center length cut first, then work into corners to
remove end pieces last.
5. If the floor was installed with Armstrong Laminate Glue, clean factory edges
using a sharp chisel. Remove glue from top of groove using a tongue and
groove cleaner tool or a small piece of laminate with tongue edge.
6. Prepare replacement board by removing bottom of groove on end and side.
7. Carefully remove tongue from end of board with sharp utility knife.
8. Clean area thoroughly and test fit. Check for high edges and adjust fit using
120-grit sandpaper.
9. Apply Armstrong Laminate Glue to top of tongue and bottom of groove.
10. Carefully place the new piece into the opening. Press firmly.
11. Remove all residual glue on the surface with a clean, damp cloth.
12. Make sure all edges are even on either side of the joints. Apply heavy
pressure for at least 24 hours. Use heavy weights.
13. Make sure that the weight is evenly distributed across the new piece.

How to lock laminate planks

Always check each board for damage before installing.
1. Avoid narrow pieces at the finish wall. Measure the distance between the
starting wall and the finish wall.
2. Divide this number by the width of the board.
3. If the remainder is less than 2-1/2″ (6.35 cm), cut off 2-1/2″ (6.35 cm) from the
width of the first row or to balance the
room add the difference to the plank
width and divide by two.
4. Roll out Armstrong Two-in-One Advanced
Hard-Surface Flooring Underpayment or
Moisture Barrier Sheeting along the starting
wall, and cut to length. Kitchen and bathroom
installations require folding the
underpayment up the wall 2″. Place additional
sections with butt seams as the installation progresses.
5. To minimize pattern repeats in the floor, always pull from at least three
cartons of flooring while installing.

Laminate Flooring Glue

Laminate Flooring Glue

-Specifically designed to create a strong, water-resistant
bond between the tongue and groove.
-The integrity of the floor installation depends on the use of
the appropriate glue, the amount of glue and the proper
installation techniques.
-Use for locking laminate installations in full bathrooms or
high moisture areas.
-Easy cleanup.
-Coverage: up to 100 sq.ft/16 ounce bottle.

Two-in-One Advanced Hard-Surface Flooring Underlayment

-Recommended under all laminate flooring with no attached
underlayment (use Armstrong moisture barrier sheeting under laminate
flooring with attached underlayment).
-A polyethylene closed-cell foam product.
-Acts as a moisture barrier when the seams are taped together with 1-3/4″
wide polyethylene tape. (Refer to Subfloor Requirements for further details.)
-Provides a cushion between the floor and the subfloor and compensates
for slight subfloor irregularities.

-Provides a thermal barrier, reducing the "cold floor" feeling common to
floors that are directly bonded to the subfloor.
-Eliminates the need for a separate vapor barrier.
-Installed with the logo side up.

Moisture Barrier Sheeting

-Recommended under all laminate flooring with attached underlayment
when installed over concrete.
-.005″ polyethylene film.
-Acts as a moisture barrier when seams are taped together with 1-3/4″ wide
polyethylene tape.

Floating Floor Structure

Floating Floor Structure

we are  considered a "floating" floor and is installed
using a floating floor system. These floors are intended for indoor use only and
can be installed over virtually any existing floor structure. Since these floors are
composed of natural cellulose fibers, they will expand and contract with
changes in relative humidity.
1-Do not attach to the subfloor at any point.
2-Do not fit flush against any fixed vertical surfaces like walls, pipes,
passageways, or staircases.
3-For most installations, where the relative humidity is between 45 and 65%,
a minimum 1/4″ (6.35 mm) expansion zone is required around the
perimeter of the room as well as against any fixed objects. This zone
accounts for the normal movement of the floor system.
4- Where the room is larger than 40′ in plank length
(12.19 m) or wider than 26′ across the width
of planks (7.92 m), T-mouldings must be used to compensate
for this movement. Refer to the section on
Transitions & Moulding Pieces for further details.
5- Temperature changes will have little effect on
the movement of these floors.
6- The number of square feet of laminate required is not equal to the number
of square feet in the area of the room because the laminate must be fit to
walls and objects. A cutting allowance of 10% for wood visuals and 15% for
tile visuals must be added to the square footage estimate.